India, Day 18

We head for Pangang Tso Lake today. 5am the Jeep picks up the Slovaks and me. When I got dressed this morning, it did not account for the Chang La Pass elevation of 5475m and the below 0 temperature. It’s a 5-hour drive to the lake. We get to the Pass, I’m freezing, but all in smiles, as the altitude has become a more of a friend than an enemy. There is a military post here – the officers order us to step in. Then they server us tea. We are the break of monotony for them. I read in my guidebook that many of the men sent out here are suffering from a military punishment of sorts; hence they tend to be bitter. Our officer seems very bitter. I ask him what’s his mission here. He ignores me, picks up a bottle of kerosene, and pours it into a self-built warming device. It’s freezing here, even the dogs hate it. Another officer walks in, he’s the tea server. He’s wearing like the 1950-ies skiing goggles on his head. I borrow them, joke around, and we start a photo session outside. We go back inside and I comment on a bulky and strange-looking phone. It’s a military phone with an encryption mechanism. He offers me to make a short phonecall anywhere I want. I’m stunned. I ask him to repeat. No, no misunderstandings. I can’t believe my bad luck – with my phone gone I have no numbers to call. I could call Soraya (one of the very few numbers I know), but she won’t appreciate a call at this part of the morning.

The lake is wonderful. It sits like a blue saphire in the mountain range. Half of the lake belongs to Tibet (China), this is why we had to get the permits yesterday. We chill out the late morning there, have a few chais and head back to Leh. Our Jeeps stops of the way back, saying hello to another driver. He’s got two gorgeous girls in the car with him. One of them sticks her head out and shouts: “Kto tu z Polski?” (who’s from Poland here). We exchange 4 quick sentences, which cover the place and time to meet tomorrow. I look forward to meeting her, not because she’s Polish too, but because she’s full of life and zeal.

On the way back, we drop off Stanislaw and Hanna at the start of their trekking path. I don’t quit being amazed at the load they carry. The weather looks promising so far. We hug, kiss and say our goodbyes, hoping we meet again.


It’s only me and the driver now in the Jeep. He sends the usual battalion of questions at me, my age and marital status included. He tells me he’s 25 (looks 35), then states there are 7 years difference between us, looks at me and smiles. I feel like my next wedding plans are being made at this point. My brains quickly scans for some conversation possibilities, and we succesfully talk about him. He asks me why I travel alone. I give him many reasons, and surprise myself at the number of them.