India, Day 10

Arrived Manali (800km north of Delhi) today at 8am sharp. My respect for Indian public transport remains high. The bus ride was rough nevertheless. What I was left with by the end of it was a very sore bottom, a Hindi love song recorded on my mobile phone by a young, good-looking Punjabi heart-throb, very dirty fingernails and a few good photo shots. I get off the bus in a low spirit; having this floating sensation and being greeted by a all-day type of rain. It’s 12 degrees cold. Cold and dampness make be very uncomfortable. My feet become wet very quickly, as I stand soaking wet to collect my breakfast. The old man packs the wheat pancake with 2 hard-boiled eggs in a newspaper wrap and stuffs it in my hand. My fingernails are full of filth, no matter how much I clean them. At this moment my India guide book falls into a paddle of water. I’m a mess. To lift up my spirit I picture myself standing right now like this in the Bangsars of KL or SoHOs of HK, about to do some fancy wining and dining. I begin to laugh at myself, if only Monika saw me now.

I sleep till noon to make up for the lost sleep. My spirit escalates as I google “weather in manali”, and learn that tomorrow and Friday will be blessed with more sun. I join a trekking group to do a 5-day adventure in 2 days time. The trekking agency offers no pictures of the trails – it’s a smart way to manage our expectations. They guarantee 5 days of spectacular views. As I sit and write this, the majestic Himalayas are looking at me. How much better can it get.

The travel agents saves me from landing a date with a good-looking horny African man who doesn’t want to leave the office till I give him my contact details. The agent threatens to call the gurkha guards. He tells me later that Israelis are a problematic bunch too. I’m hearing this more and more now. Maybe my yoga friends were exceptional. He tells me how distrusting, bargain-crazy and rude they can be, especially to women. He calls me a nice customer. He knows how to sell.

I indulge in Punjabi food again, loving the cheeses here. They don’t give me a side reaction like back home. Today on the bus, a few men jumped on with milk-containers strapped to their backs – freshly collected from the cows. How organic is that! Sarah: this one is for you and your mum! Dried fruits and nuts are another local specialty – dried apples, figs, apricots, almonds, walnuts and saffron. I do some crazy shopping again.

Manali is known for its spectacular hikes of endless possibilities, helo-skiing, para-gliding World Cups and Indian honeymooners. Next to me over dinner sits one such couple. They constantly giggle. They tickle each other under the table. They share every meal. They got here just 2 days ago. I cannot but think that probably last night was the first time they had sex. Like a good Punjabi girl should do. Less so for a good Punjabi boy.